Ain't No Mountain High Enough

Pushkar – Days 8 and 9

Yesterday we arrived in Pushkar after a rather grueling six hour drive. The drive wasn’t as pretty as the one to Udaipur – the scenery this time was mainly marble and granite quarries, interspersed by dusty little towns and parched, barren fields.

When we came over Snake Mountain and saw Pushkar nestled in the valley, all green and small-towny, my spirits lifted immediately. Finally, a small town! I would have the freedom to walk around and explore as I wanted.

I was even happier when we arrived at the hotel. My room is large and tidy, and features a balcony overlooking the hotel’s pool, with the mountains providing a dramatic backdrop. I decided that once I got settled, I would head into town for a look around.

I followed the meandering dirt road from my hotel to the main drag. I realized this town was going to be a bit different when I saw a sign for the Pink Floyd Inn. Hmm. Indeed, as I made my way through town I spotted my first Euro-hippie. It seems that Pushkar is a magnet for the dred-locked traveler. I wound my way through the usual spread of shops and yelling men (“Miss! Miss! What country you from!” or, “Miss! You look here at my shop! You spend Rupee!” – yes, they seriously do say that) and found my way to the small lake in the middle of town. THIS was a romantic sight. Buildings rise gently up in a curve around the lake, on the ghats of which are bathers and women in colorful saris. I had dinner at the aptly named Sun Set Café and followed a camel back to my hotel in the waning twilight.

This morning, I woke up and decided that I would climb to the Saraswati Temple, perched at the top of a nearby mountain. At 7:30, I made my way into town, though the street hawkers (they apparently get up early), past the Brahma Temple and its attendant beggars and priests, into the countryside. The sun had not yet risen too far in the sky, and there was a nice breeze when I started my ascent.

An hour later, I was nearing the peak, and the temple. By then, it was hot. The breeze had subsided, and the climb became grueling. The neat steps had long ago given way to steeply inclining rocks. At that point, I was resting every five minutes so as not to overheat. My brother gave me a water mister for my birthday, which came in extremely handy. When I reached the top, it was well worth it, though. Views of the entire valley spread out below me.

So far, I’ve taken the rest of the day “off”. There’s really not much more to see in Pushkar, and I could use a break from sightseeing. Well, truthfully, I need a break from the ceaseless onslaught of people trying to sell me stuff and/or take my photo. This morning, on the way up the mountain, a group of boys asked me if I would pose for photos with them. I was hot, sweaty, and not in the mood to pose for a picture, so I politely declined. They proceeded to follow me the rest of the climb, harassing me for a photo (until the Polite in me broke down and I finally snapped, “I said NO. Back. Off!”). They probably meant no harm or ill will, but I’m just tired of it.

Tomorrow should be good! I’m headed off to the Rathambore Tiger Reserve! While I’m sure the locals will find a way to try to squeeze Rupees from the tourists, I’m hoping it will be a little less intense.